Tag Archives: summer2011

Article: Indonesia’s Consumption Driven Growth

I recently got an article I wrote published in Columbia University’s Asian Pacific Affairs Council Journal. It’s my first piece of published writing on Asia. You can see the entire journal here.

Construction beckons Indonesia’s modern capital, Jakarta’s, entry as a 21st century economy – the drive from the airport into the central city is dominated by high-rise shopping and office complexes. Indonesia wants to be the second I in “BRIIC,” and is using its natural riches to become one of Asia’s newest engines of growth. It is those very natural resources that are driving economic growth both within Indonesia and in Asia; Indonesian coal powers many of China’s new power plants, and its minerals make possible Asia’s expanding tech sector. Mining alone still accounts for almost 13% of GDP, and many economists believe that a rise in commodity prices is most responsible for Indonesia’s recent growth. With shopping malls and strong consumer spending, Indonesia looks, on the surface, ready to take its place at the global economic table.

It makes sense – strong consumer spending is a sign of a developed economy. In the United States, in one of former President George W. Bush’s first statements after 9/11, he told Americans to “keep shopping,” in order to avoid a potential post-attack recession. Consumer spending forms the vast majority of the US economy. In Indonesia, it now accounts for nearly half, and a far higher portion within cities. The western model of consumer driven economic growth has been exported to Asia, and along with it, the idea that economic growth trumps other determinants of social well-being. This is not just an Indonesian phenomenon. There are now nine shopping malls in East and Southeast Asia larger than the Mall of America in Minnesota, with malls in China and the Philippines leading the way.

Though malls are being built in Indonesia, other infrastructure is not. The World Bank’s logistic performance index ranked Indonesia 75th globally – below Honduras, the Dominican Republic, and Benin, all countries with lower per-capita GDP. Jakarta still lacks an effective public transit system, its port is overcrowded and inefficient, and things become worse in outlying islands. The commodity driven boom is driving consumerism, but not infrastructure, education, or health, and this has potentially devastating long-term consequences for the sustainability of Indonesia’s economy.

Raw materials were the driving force behind Dutch colonial exploitation – then, the products in demand were rubber, coffee, indigo, pepper, sugar, and tea, grown on the fertile soil of Java. These riches went to very few, and the country as a whole became poor. After independence in 1945, many thought that the country would quickly grow, and that its resources would provide a strong base for future prosperity.

Some growth did occur, but with it came civil war, population growth, cronyism, and a repressive dictatorship. Educated Indonesians lament that “we were once a colony of the Dutch – now we are a colony of America and Japan.” The Dutch profiteering has been replaced by that of foreign corporations like Freeport McMoran, Chevron, or Japanese Timber conglomerates. Some Indonesians are gaining, but Jakarta’s shopping malls, far away from the open-pit mines of Papua or the deforestation of Kalimantan, are a sign of failed priorities. A resource-driven boom should be, in theory, the most equitable, because a country’s natural wealth is supposed to be for all of its citizens.  Yet the majority of Indonesians, especially outside of Jakarta, remain only marginally better off today than before the resource boom. Indonesia ranks 105th in the United Nations Human Development Index, again far behind several countries with similar per-capita GDP.

There is little green space in Jakarta; instead, air-conditioned taxis whisk people through traffic to the new social spaces in modern Indonesia; giant shopping mall. It is western consumerism taken to its logical conclusion – shopping as the symbol of growth. But Indonesia still has a long way to go to fulfill the promise of its natural wealth to all of its citizens. If consumerism is the sole determinant of economic growth, then Indonesia is more than ready to be a global economic power, but sustainable, long-term equitable growth may be just as much of a dream today as it was after independence. The future of all of East Asia may be foreshadowed in Jakarta – only time will tell what will happen once resources begin to be depleted or global prices fall.

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Jakarta is Writing

In my last post about Indonesia, I wrote

Had I not been there, Jakarta would still have gone on, and the city wouldn’t have noticed. It was a one-way path – the city and country making a deep, intractable impression on me, but me leaving little impression on Jakarta.

It was a strong feeling throughout the summer. Jakarta was, by far, the most hectic city I’ve ever lived in, even more than NYC. Add in the fact that I barely spoke the language, I really felt oblivious. Like the city was always churning, moving, and I was just observing it from the shadows.

That’s not to say I was passive while there. I learned some Bahasa Indonesia, met several Couchsurfers, visited numerous Kehati sites, and explored the city. One of my favorite projects was forming a writing group through Couchsurfing. We met at my favorite local cafe, Anomali Kemang, which has coffee that is unparalleled in NYC. Every week for nearly two months, I met with a varying group of 3-8 other Couchsurfers, mostly Indonesian but we did have one Filipina regular, and wrote together.

However, the group seemed to have sputtering motivation, with small turnouts near the end. No one volunteered to keep it going. As I left Jakarta, I forgot about the group, and assumed that it had faded into oblivion…

Hence, my surprise when my Indonesian friend Felisia told me this in an email.

btw do you know that your writings meetups is being held again?

you’re a starter of something here hehe…

I couldn’t believe, and quickly went to the Jakarta CS group boards. It was true! The longest thread was for the continuation of the writing group I’d started back in June! In the first post -

Would like say Hi first to Nithin, where ever you are right now.
Thanks for hooking me up with Writers Club :)

Inez, who only came only once, is organizing the meetup. It’s turned into something greater than I could have imagined – with its own blog (Peoplesliceoflice), weekly themes, prizes, contests and rotating locations.

It turned out that I was wrong. Completely wrong. I didn’t just sit in the shadows of Jakarta, I did do something there that is lasting. A seed had been planted. My presence made a difference to some people there, maybe only a little, but some, just as they made a great influence on me.

The world works in mysterious ways. Maybe I was meant to be in Jakarta this summer for a reason.

Jakarta – keep on writing! I hope to make a meetup again, someday, someday.

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Japan – Photos Part 2

Courtesy of Sensei Tomoko Okagaki, our academic adviser for the trip.

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Time and Memories

Time flows unevenly. It’s pace depends on one’s place, locale, and also on oneself. Buddhist teaching says that time can be observed in its most subtle, tiny vibration from within your own body. Your state, your soul, strongly effects how time flows through you.

It was thoughts like this, about time, place, love, and the meaning of life, that dominated my summer in Jakarta. The two months felt like far longer, because I was forced to, by my situation, to delve deep inside myself, to discover things that both scared me, and excited me. I felt time, there, more acutely than I have in many, many years.

In today’s world, experiences have to be categorized, stamped, and put into soundbites for general consumption. At least, that’s how I’ve felt since returning to New York, and back to school, being asked over and over again, “How was your summer?”

But how can I explain? It’s been barely a month. How are you supposed to understand an experience in that short of a time? It begged the larger question – how was I supposed to understand Indonesia, or even Jakarta, in just two months?

All I can say is what I felt and saw through my own senses, during that two month period which will never exist again. Indonesia was intensely personal, and I was but a visitor, on the edges, getting a small, but sweet taste of a complex, developing country. I was there, observing, but the city, and life, was going on despite my presence. Had I not been there, Jakarta would still have gone on, and the city wouldn’t have noticed. It was a one-way path – the city and country making a deep, intractable impression on me, but me leaving little impression on Jakarta.

Traveling, and life, is incredible subjective. Your experiences are tied to the time, and place, you went, with a giant helping of luck and chance. Yet, within these deeply personal experiences, are stories, anecdotes, tales, that can enrich others. A soundbite answer to a question won’t tell you about my experience in Indonesia. But perhaps this blog will. Perhaps my writings can show you how my experiences shaped my self, and through that, show you the power of traveling and the interconnectedness of humanity.

That, at least is my hope. Or, more accurately, my dream. The dream of any writer.

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Press Conference – Jakarta Style

This is a bit outdated – but fun nontheless! Enjoy.

Everyone was going – and, of course, I was invited. Kehati was participating in a press conference to announce a partnership with Indonesian online gaming company UniPin. Essentially, UniPin would give Kehati a portion of every game voucher purchased – 50 rupiah, to be exact. Which comes out to less than…a penny.

Now, I’ve been to several press conferences in the US. They are usually boring affairs – lines of chairs facing a podium, a speaker or two followed by questions. There is a prevailing sense of professionalism on both sides – which dictates all interactions.

Now, here’s how’s it’s done in Jakarta.

First you arrive. The place is more like a lounge than a conference room – in fact, its in a shopping mall. An attendant greets you, offers you water. You sit, and grab..a plate. Cause, there’s a first class, catered buffet!

Take a seat in your comfortable seats. Lighting be damned – this is a party. Take a few photos to appease your bosses, but stay for the food.

I was already astounded – and then things got only crazier. In what would be a blatant form of corruption if it were done in the US, the press conference ended with…a raffle. Journalists got on stage, and screamed out answers to questions for the chance to win an IPad, and more.

My colleague, a former journalist, explained me how little freedom the corporate-controller reporters had in Indonesia – one reason she left to work in the non-profit sector. It wasn’t Government control, but more editor control, and it was more pervasive than overt. Still, the press conference – Jakarta style – was an eye opener to me. I wonder how they do it in other places. China? India?

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Being a Future Leader

It does sound a little pretentious. Future US Leaders, most of us coming off of lowly internships, not even having finished graduate school. Yet here we were, in Japan, guests of the Japan Foundation, who’d paid for all 14 of us to visit Japan for 10 days.

For me, it was a dramatic shift. To come from Indonesia, where I’d been braving the local metromini, to ultra-modern and comfortable – if HOTTER – Tokyo. My cheap t-shirts and shorts were replaced by business shirts and slacks. We were here to represent America, and that meant dressing well, even if the A/C was being kept high due to recent energy crisis (more on that later).

Japan is a fascinating country. There is probably no other country in Asia that had as little historical influence from Western colonialism – and it shows, despite the modernization. This trip, I got a deeper sense of the long history, and the strong, continual thread that ties modern Japan to the granduers of the past – and also, the atrocities.

Having visited Korea earlier this trip, seeing relations across the sea from Japan’s perspective proved enlighening – and a reminder how large the cultural and historical gap between Asia and us across the Pacific is.

But what impressed me most was how open the Japan Foundation was – we weren’t being spoon-fed any rhetoric – but we were truly invited to exchange views, learn from each other, and become closer through common understanding.

We were 14 Americans being invited to Hiroshima, barely 65 years since we dropped the most destructive bomb in history here. Yet, we weren’t being told to atone for the past – we were there to see how we could build a better future.

Photos below!

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Leaving Indonesia

From KLIA LCCT, Malaysia


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This morning, I left Indonesia, and am currently in-transit to Japan.

It’s hard to put into a single post what my experience in Indonesia was. The two months were full of experiences, many personal, that forced me to think about life, love, and many other things. Korea was the beginning of my trip, and was filled with optimism that, it turned out, was misplaced. In Jakarta I had to rebuild internally, before I could enjoy the country for what it was. But one I did, I thrived, and felt that two months was far too short.

When I arrived, I had an incredibly difficult time adjusting. Indonesia felt incredibly foreign, different, and despite all my experiences abroad, I felt completely out of place. In this I learned a valuable life lesson – it’s not your ability to adjust that makes you a traveler, but your courage, and most importantly, patience in the face of difficulty. If there was no challenge in traveling or living abroad, then why would I ever want to leave home?

The warmth and kindness of Indonesians helped, from the great Couchsurfing community, to the staff at Kehati who gave me far more than I gave in return.

I learned an immense amount about development, the environment, and the complex challenges facing biodiverse developing countries. I saw the darker side of consumption and it scared me. A city where green spaces meant little. But I also saw signs of hope, in the fact that even here, there are people who care amidst overwhelming odds – the students of Teens Go Green Jakarta, the staff at Kehati, or the volunteers I met at various environmental events.

Indonesia has given me the confidence and courage to go home, work hard, and return and help make a difference. As I head to Japan to join the US Future Leaders Travel Program, I feel, for the first time, that I can be a future leader.

Will I be back? Definitely.

My family with local, organic farmers outside Yogjakarta, one the few organic farms in Indonesia.

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Pasar Baru – Jakarta Photos

During my last weekend in Jakarta, I joined a group of locals and explored Pasar Baru, the largest market in Jakarta, the go to spot for shoes, fake clothing, and textiles. I’d often been told this was the place to find Indians in Jakarta, but I only saw a few during my time there (still the most I ever saw in Indonesia).

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